Today’s post will be slightly different and longer than the usual posts; this to provide watch lovers, less interested by marketing aspects, with some more technical information.
For those of you who don’t know Blancpain, this Swiss watches manufacture belongs to the most prestigious brands. To the contrary of brands like Patek Philippe, Jaeger Le Coultre or Audemars Piguet, Blancpain opens its doors easily. I visited the manufacture in Le Brassus, Switzerland, in early August in my quality of passionate amateur of horology.
For this 2.5-hour visit we were welcomed by Mousse Jacquier, Blancpain’s PR assistant. Although I feared that we’d have to stay behind windows to observe the watchmakers, I was positively surprised to be able to get in the most prestigious departments (Tourbillon, Minute Repeater, Finishing, Engraving) and to freely interact with the watchmakers.
Tourbillon Atelier
Two watchmakers were at work when we went in. After we got introduced, the principle of the Tourbillon was quickly explained. One of the watchmakers then presented his work: the parts necessary for the assembly of the Tourbillon are delivered in batches of 5. Up to two weeks are necessary to assemble 5 sets. A demo movement was put under the binocular microscope to reveal the Tourbillon’s magic.
The watchmaker explains us that the most challenging part of his job is to adjust the Tourbillon. After the deviations have been measured in 6 positions (2 horizontal and 6 vertical ones) during 1 minute per position, the mean value is calculated. The represents approximately the normal use of a wristwatch. Deviations in the different positions compensate each other which explains why a watch deviates more than normal when not worn. Each adjustment requires that the complete tourbillon be disassembled.
The possibility remains however to adjust the watch to the very way of life of the owner.
The adjustment is made possible by little screws placed on the cage of the tourbillon. Screwing more or less modifies the balance. When asked “How do you know which screws to adjust ?” the watchmaker answers with humility “experience”.
Minute Repeater Atelier
After the Tourbillon Atelier we were about to see the Holy Grail, the Minute Repeater atelier. On the day of our visit only one (out of 3) watchmaker was at work. He was in charge not only of Minute Repeater but also of the Equation Marchante and even took over the assembly of a 1735, the most complicated watch ever manufactured by Blancpain when a colleague of him left.
Once again the principle of the minute repeater was explained before a movement was put under the microscope (linked via a camera to a LCD monitor). The movement could then be observed at leisure, especially the upper side which is usually hidden under the dial and which is nonetheless as fascinating as the back side. The watchmaker then activated the mechanism. We saw the hammers hitting the gongs … a very magical moment. But it all went too fast ! I just couldn’t take my eyes off the screen. This was all so eye-catching but remained mysterious. The watchmaker then manually activated the repeater and slowly went through every single part to show us how each part triggered the next one. Just amazing to see how each part is designed to accomplish a given function and how that function gives the shape of the part.
We learned that the “gong” is made out of a special alloy, a stock of which was purchased by Blancpain 50 years ago. Today the same stock is still being used to produce about 20 repeaters a year. With 10 cm in each repeater you can do the maths by yourself and find out how many meters were used in the last 25 years; very little actually for one forth of a century. Each movement requires about 1 month of work to be assembled … compare this to the time needed for a Tourbillon and you quickly understand the price differences.
There’s also a big safe out there and look at what it’s in it : the very last 1735 sold (the 30th). No need to comment for who likes fine horology. The dream has (or more precisely “had”; it’s sold out) a price : 1,200,000 CHF (about 800,000€). The movement is first assembled, tested, then disassembled and re-assembled again in the case before the whole watch is tested again. It all takes about 1 year to “produce” (I hate this “word” ; in Blancpain’s context only “manufacture” seems to fit) the watch.
A little story to finish on the 1735 : sometimes the 1735 was delivered to the lucky owner by the very watchmaker who assembled it. Mousse Jacquier told us that photo alums were sometimes also made by the watchmakers to accompany the birth of the 1735 along the seasons. When you live on the other side of the earth it must be a very particular feeling to get news of your baby and to see how its environment is evolving.
Last but not least, Blancpain also specialized in libertine minute repeaters (which are repeaters with automatons depicting an erotic scene). The production of repeaters is already very limited, that of libertine repeaters is even more confidential and for the first time I’ve able to see one exemplar in person. The automatons are realized in gold by an external craftsman. All watches produced with automatons are unique exemplars as there are no two very same scene produced. The craftsman went very far in the details ; look at the book which is itself engraved with an erotic scene.
On our way from the Minute repeater atelier to the Finition atelier we stopped at a showcase prepared for one of the Basel fairs were all components of the 1735 were on display. No wonder that it takes so long to assemble them.
Finishing Atelier
In the finishing atelier all hidden parts of the watch are decorated : Côtes de Genève and other types of decorations are realized by a team of 6 people. This is however reserved to the most prestigious movements : 1735, minute repeaters and some of the tourbillons (not all). For the less prestigious movements finishing is realized by pre-programmed machines.
For a minute repeater the different steps of the finishing process are realized started from rough parts received from Frederic Piguet SA. It takes 1 month to prepare a set of parts before it is handed over to the Minute Repeater Atelier to get assembled. Finishing is realized using, in many cases, custom-made tools (see also the article by Jeff Kingston in the Lettres du Brassus).
To sum up, the Finishing Atelier adds value to the watch, however it’s a hidden value that only the owner can appreciate through the display back.
Engravings Atelier
This atelier was already dealt with in a thorough article by Didier Schmutz in the Lettres du Brassus. I won’t be able to describe better how this Atelier is working ; I therefore suggest that the reader follow the hyperlink and read the original article.
I was fortunate enough to see in person the realizations of the engravers who all graduated from the Ecole Boule in France. In particular I saw a series of 50 rotors in gold for a limited edition dedicated for the Chinese market. In this atelier we were clearly leaving the world of craftsmanship to enter that of Art.
The visit ended up in the meeting room where we were given merchandising articles, the beauty of which perfectly shows Blancpain attention for details and quality
My take :
It doesn’t matter whether you’re a customer or not : the visit of the manufacture in Le Brassus is always possible (after appointment of course). The visit in itself is an extraordinary moment, be it for an amateur or a real passionate collector. Blancpain really shares with you the secrets of the manufacturing process of an high-end time-keeping object. After such a visit you will never dare to ask why such watches are priced so high.
To come back to a more marketing-oriented analysis, welcoming amateurs, potential clients and clients the way Blancpain does it is just a great communication and loyalty tool (believe me, the professionalism of Blancpain employees counts for a large part, especially as far as Mousse Jacquier is concerned) : putting a face, a name, on such a delicate and qualitative object is a rare experience in an industrialized world where banalisation has become the rule. Blancpain definitely sets up a new standard in the way a company can communicate with prospects and clients. The initiatives of the watchmakers (delivering the watch in person for the 1735, taking pictures of the watch birth along the seasons, sharing their passion with the visitors, …) is also crucial as it tends to create a personnal relationship with the owner and / or the visitors. Emotional aspects are here especially important (remember that lifetime loyalty is created through an emotional bond with a brand, which is very well managed by Blancpain).
For those of you who are contemplating the purchase of a watch and who think of the choice of their watch as more an intellectual process than an impulsion, I think Blancpain has developped for you a remarkable solution with is backed by their magazine « Lettres du Brassus ». Actually I’m pretty much convinced that very few brands can propose such a proximity with the very people who are at work ; the added value in terms of branding is enormous and deserves that it be communicated in the not-so-little world of watches aficionados.
Once again my deepest acknowledgments to the Blancpain team and in particulat to Mousse Jacquier for enabling this visit.
